Is this really the end?

Cows now outnumber skiers on most of the Alps' slopes

May has arrived and with it most of the Alps' ski areas have packed up for the season. Instructors are planning beach breaks, marmots are discussing whether to add a rear extension to their burrows and ski wax salesmen are anxiously counting their takings.

You'd be forgiven for thinking that winter sports are over, at least until fall, when snowflakes again begin to swirl and the thermometers start to plunge once more. But even though outside my window the temperatures are nudging into the mid-80s, I am looking forward to my trip next week to Cervinia, high in the Italian Alps on the southern side of the Matterhorn - here called the Cervino. The village lies at over six and a half thousand feet and the slopes rise up to nearly 13,000 feet on a glacier shared between Cervinia and Zermatt. In the summer season, which officially starts on the 5th May in 2025, skiing is more limited than the 200+ miles on offer during the winter months, but you'll still find wide groomers, perfect for ripping out some carving turns, and powder days are by no means rare - although the glacial slopes mean you need to stick to the marked runs unless you have local knowledge. Crevasses can and do swallow the unwary whole.

A quick look at the webcam at the top tells me winter is still in full swing, and indeed will remain so for much of the year, because this is one of Europe's few areas that aims to remain open throughout the summer for skiing.

For us, now that most travelers have finished their winter trips, it's an opportunity to get the kids out skiing again on empty slopes. The dream is for sunny skies, but last year when we went we scored 3 feet of powder - admittedly a couple of weeks earlier - which made my decision to take the fat skis pay off. The current forecast suggests half a foot of fresh snow the day before we arrive. Fingers crossed.

As the summer progresses and the wildflowers come out, Cervinia becomes an outdoor playground for mountain lovers of all kinds - all with the backdrop of that incredible mountain. Golfers? The highest course in Italy is here.

Perfectly valid to say you were distracted by the view

If you like hiking or biking, trails wind up through pastures along tinkling mountain streams. Mountain restaurants are open in the summer too, with a typical lunch involving a plate of local air-dried meats, cheeses and bread - you can work it off on the ascent. We like LOVE, which makes the most of its sun-soaked terrace to serve up Mediterranean faves washed down with something chilled. It's enough of a walk from town to feel the legs burn a little, without being too strenuous - even littler hikers should manage it.

Racket sports are also well-represented. We are hearing more and more how visitors want to enjoy a game of tennis or padel - and Cervinia has two padel courts, plus floodlit tennis.

Exercise is one thing, but vacations are also about relaxing, which is where dining and spa facilities come in. The Relais & Châteaux-listed Hermitage Hotel & Spa has a keen focus on food, with La Chandelle serving up traditional Aosta Valley cuisine with flair, accompanied by a 1000-strong cellar of the best local wines. The spa uses spring water from the mountain to fill its pool and hot tub (they do warm it up first), and the proximity to Switzerland is recognized by their use of natural Swiss alpine ingredients, including the flower edelweiss.

One of the best parts of the warmer months in Cervinia is that it is so close to the Italian Lakes. Little Lago d'Orta hasn't got the international star-billing of the more storied lakes to the east, but it has everything that they have in miniature. Charming, ancient lakefront town? Check - Orta San Giulio's cobbled streets, gelaterias and restaurant terraces are historic and attractive. Lake island to add a touch of scenic drama? Check - you can take a short ferry ride over to Isola San Giulio to explore the basilica and its Medieval frescos.

Basilica di San Giulio, Lago d'Orta, Italy

This is only just over two hours' drive from Cervinia - but you may soon find yourself happy to get back to the serenity of the high mountains.

We offer trips visiting Cervinia year round, and can put together a package for you including summer or winter skiing, golf, padel, tennis, spa, fine-dining, biking and hiking (in summer), combined with the Italian Lakes and great cities such as Milan, Turin and Venice. For more information, please reach out.

Inquire

Other summer skiing options

• Hintertux, in Austria's Zillertal, also offers skiing at glacial heights for much of the year - as well as some surprisingly steep terrain (glacier skiing is often quite gentle). Its cute base village offers some fantastic places to stay. Off the snow explore the historic core of Innsbruck, tour Sound of Music locations in Salzburg and enjoy coffee and schnitzel in Imperial Vienna.

• Beyond the Arctic Circle, Riksgränsen in Sweden, doesn't even open its doors until late March, and by May the season is in full swing. You'll find extensive freeride terrain, heli-skiing, long, light evenings and the chance to hop over the border to the fjords in Norway.

• Another Nordic destination that comes into its own from spring onwards is Iceland. The Troll Peninsula is known for untouched wilderness and summit-to-sea descents from 5,000 feet. Go in March to have the best chance of spotting the Northern Lights and scoring cold winter powder. Go in early summer to ski buttery corn snow and enjoy super-long days. Go at all times of year to experience the super-cool Deplar Farm (in our new Summit Selection) and its superb heli operation - down days can include fly-fishing on crystal clear rivers, jamming in the fully-equipped band loft and whale-watching (among many more activities).

• For a true winter (summer) skiing adventure you have to head south to the snow. This is what our buddies at South 2 Snow recommend, combining tango, steaks and fabulous Malbec on the streets of Buenos Aires with South America's best skiing at Cerro Catedral in the Patagonian Lake District.